Istanbul

I recently flew through Istanbul’s new airport. Istanbul, it turns out, evidently knows how to clean, when it sets its mind to it. One could almost eat from the shiny floors of the airport. Well, if that is what you like.

Between two flights, I had a few hours at the airport, and I spent most of the time unsuccessfully trying to connect to the internet. The system seemed to be overwhelmed by the numbers of travellers going through this ambitious airport. Had I, however, felt the urge to shop, all the luxury brands are on offer. Then again, trying to find an English speaker at the coffee shop, was more difficult.

I saw quite a few men with scalps, that looked as if they had gone through a torture chamber. Self-flagellation? Not quite. Turkey does a brisk export business in hair-transplant services and these young (well, young is a relative term) men were travelling back to their home countries in their post-operative state. I suppose that it is, after all, a sort of self-flagellation.

Talking of self-flagellation, I also noticed large groups of orthodox Jews, travelling back to Israel after a pilgrimage to their Rabbi’s grave – Rabbi Nachman of Breslov’s grave in Uman, a small town, three hours’ drive from Kiev. This has become very popular in recent years and tens of thousands of Rabbi Nachman’s devotees spend thousands of dollars to participate in this idolatrous happening. They go to Uman to pray, as they believe that prostrating themselves on the grave of Rabbi Nachman of Breslov, who died in 1810, will spiritually enrich them and solve all their problems. Israeli press has juicily reported that devotion to local prostitutes is also part of the attraction for some pilgrims. One Haredi who has been to the city dozens of times claims that the prostitution is controlled by Israeli crime bosses in league with Ukrainian pimps.