There are several tavernas right next to our
house, just by the sea. One of them – at the best location of all – seemed to open only occasionally. Nevertheless,
the blackboard outside continued to list – not only all the traditional Greek
dishes, but also – various fresh fish,
one could eat there. The owner, a full-bodied 50-year-old man, would sit at one
of his tables, sometime on his own, occasionally with a friend, smoking and
drinking. Every day, all day long. He was friendly and would respond with a
smile when greeted in the morning. But he was closed for business.
I was curious. Reluctantly, after some questioning, neighbours
told me that the place is deteriorating, that the man is simply lazy. One
evening, when the place was open, we went there for dinner. It turned out that on
some afternoons, when the 17-year-old son comes home from school, they’ll open.
The food, the son told us, is made by his mother, who works full time as a
teacher in the small village. We decided not to take a chance with “fresh” fish
and ordered food that could be warmed up, of the Moussaka and filled pepper
variety. We did not immediately book a table for the next day.
The location is great and the restaurant did get
occasional business. The first to notice were always the cats, who would
immediately be there, hoping to join the party. You cannot eat in a restaurant
on these islands, without myriads of well-fed cats surrounding your table. The
thing is that most of these islands swell up in the summer months and are left
with only the locals, virtually emptying them, in winter. What happens with
cats in winter, I asked the fine looking woman, who runs a tavern on one of the
other islands. Ah, the taverna owner told me, there is an organisation
that comes twice a week and brings food for the cats. They place it in the
parking area and the cats all come there. But, she hesitated and then added,
the cats get sterilised.
So here’s the riddle: if all those cats get
sterilised, how come there are so very many cats everywhere? Some sort of
feline immaculate conception?
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